Showing posts with label The Ancient City. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Ancient City. Show all posts

May 07, 2013

Vegan Thai food | visiting a school in Thailand | cooking with kids | dinner and a show


The weather in Seattle has been uncharacteristically gorgeous the past week — yesterday we had the highest temperature of any city in the U.S. It was 87˚ and sunny with blue skies and a gentle breeze! Today it started out cloudy but is now sunny, and the forecast for the week looks the same — sunny and 70s. Who can sit at a computer and write blog posts under these circumstances? Nope. It's gardening, walking, reading on the porch weather. I'm making an exception today before I go out and plant strawberries because it's been so long since I posted and I want to finish my travelog so I can start posting current doings.

As I was processing the photos for the post, I was reliving some fabulous eating experiences and wishing I could taste some of the foods again, especially the spring rolls you see in the above photo. They were made by the owner and principal of a school we visited, and were the best (best, best, best) spring rolls I've ever tasted. Period.

On our last day in Thailand we were driven to Ban Bueng district to visit a school owned and operated by the mother of two of our host's former and current doctoral students, who also work at the school with their mother. Ban Bueng is near the city of Chonburi, on the Gulf of Thailand about 100 km east of Bangkok. The school's curriculum is based on the King's plan for children's education, which I understand includes an emphasis on life skills and self-sufficiency as well as basic academic subjects.


We observed the children practicing cooking skills. The teachers explained that the children were learning how to use products that were abundant in the area. The knowledge was shared with parents, who could then create more products they could sell. We saw the children making preserved duck eggs which we politely declined to sample, and in the photo above, we saw them learning to make rice paper packets filled with garlic scapes, also known as green garlic. The garlic scapes had been chopped and sautéed with a small amount of oil. A dampened rice paper square (about a 4" square) was placed onto a hand, topped with garlic scapes, and folded into a packet. The packets were then steamed for about five minutes, at which point we got to sample them. Delicious! And easy to recreate at home.


My favorite child-made treat was khanom krok, a delectable coconut and rice flour confection. I've never seen young children allowed to get so close to a super hot surface before, and it sure made me nervous, but they handled it without mishap.


The can held a heat source and the khanom krok pan was sizzling hot. There are two batters that go into the pan — a thick bottom layer and a thin top layer.  When the bottom is crispy and the top set, the cakes are removed — pried out is probably a more accurate description — and set out to cool a bit before being eaten. They are usually stacked in pairs but eaten separately. My husband tried to bite into both of them at once and they spurted all over his shirt. They firm up as they cool and his were probably still too hot.


These are so good. One of my sons actually owns the special pan needed to make khanom krok so I may try this. In the meantime, I found two links to recipes if you're curious. (The ones we ate didn't have green onions added.) Link #1.  Link #2.


After watching the kids cook, it was time for our lunch. The omnivores were at one table and the vegans at another! The school owner/principal and one of the staff sat with us veggie types. The school owner made all of our food and it was the very best food of the entire trip. Sensational.


Because there were so many specifically Thai ingredients that I was unfamiliar with, I can't tell you what exactly made each dish special. This one is green beans over noodles ganished with peanuts and ... something.


On the left is a vegetable dish with snow peas, carrots, zucchini and pepper, and on the right? Beats me.


While we were eating I was asked why I was vegan. I don't usually like to discuss veganism over food, but since all the food at our table was plant-based, and I wouldn't really have an opportunity to talk with our lunch mates again, I gave a brief explanation of why I don't eat animals. It was just a basic animal rights, environment, health thing delivered as politely as possible.

My plate.
Can you hear the crispy spring rolls crying, "Eat me! Eat me!"? I can.

Here's a closer look at the best spring rolls ever. I couldn't stop eating them even though I was stuffed. I want more. I want more.


If you've been following my blog, you know I've highlighted some very odd desserts. I think there were some at this lunch as well, but we also had sticky rice and khanom krok (see the children making it near the top of the post), and these were desserts I was happy to indulge in, even though I could barely breathe after all I'd already eaten. The rice is greenish because it's flavored with pandan, a sweet plant that plays heavily as a flavoring and sweetening agent in Thai beverages and desserts.


After lunch we observed more of the school activities, including the children learning about gardening.


After watching them work with seedlings, we went out into the garden where the children were harvesting fruits and vegetables with their teachers.


We also observed a lesson in meditation.


This was pretty much how I felt.




There were three lucky dogs living at the school. All had been rescued from the streets outside the school, and nursed back to health. The largest dog was a little skittish around strangers but the two little ones were as thrilled to meet me as I was to meet them.

After our day at the school, we were hustled into a limo and driven some distance to a huge shopping center because our hosts decided we needed a Thai spa experience. I was given a mani-pedi and my husband received a full-body massage. Too bad I didn't take any photos of my newly pedicured and polished feet, since they're all back to normal now. I didn't get polish on my fingernails because I knew it would start chipping too fast and would drive me crazy.

Our drive back to Bangkok at the end of a very long, very hot day, passed by The Ancient City (from my first Thailand post) and we stopped there for dinner and a show.


If you recall, the Ancient City is owned and operated by our host's brother and nephew, and we were scheduled to eat at the hotel and watch a traditional Thai evening outdoor performance. We had been warned to expect lots of mosquitoes but fortunately there was a good breeze and none appeared.


After the performance, members of the audience were invited up to the stage to have their photos taken with the cast. I had my picture taken, too, but every photo of me taken on our trip came out blurred.

My dinner plate. Too tired to shoot the other 97 plates of food.

When we finished taking photos, we walked to the hotel for dinner. I was still full from lunch but what could I do? In Thailand finishing all the food on your plate is rude and a signal to your host that there wasn't enough food provided. I was more worried about eating enough so they would know we liked the dinner. Let me just say that the food was so good that we managed to eat a substantial amount.


As we dined overlooking the canal, the performances continued both on the water and on a stage across the water.


We couldn't understand a word of the performance which was probably just as well in the opinion of our host. She said it was shockingly raunchy and she seemed very surprised.


When the performances ended, vendors in boats  passed by selling various souvenirs, foods and drinks.It was a very unique evening, to say the least.


Just before we headed back to Bangkok I spied a colorful bus in the parking lot; Thailand is a very color-intensive country, and even the buses are likely to be vibrant.


Back at our hotel, we had a few hours to sleep before being picked up at 3:30 a.m. to head to the airport, but before signing off on Thailand, I want to show you one more thing — the bathroom. In Thailand, as in other countries I've visited, the sewage system cannot handle toilet paper. Our hotel and bathroom were very modern, but the sign is clear.


You can see the little can on the bottom right, but the situation is not as grim as it seems, because the bathrooms are equipped with a handy little spray hose next to the toilet which you use before blotting dry with the toilet paper. When I returned home, one of the things I missed was the hose. I know there are bidets, but I really liked the efficiency of the hose. I want one.

More posts about our trip to Thailand:
Thailand post #1  
Thailand post #2  
Thailand post #3  
Thailand post #4
Thailand post #5

April 09, 2013

Trip to Thailand post #1- The Ancient City

A dragon in the Ancient City

My husband has a working relationship with a University in Thailand, and over the years he's been hosting Thai students in the U.S. for several months as they work on their PhD degrees. The payment for his work comes in the form of two trips to Thailand — one to visit the student's research site to provide consultation, and one attend the doctoral defense of the student he's been working with. He's been to Thailand twice in the past, but for the last few years has not used his trips, even though he has continued to mentor students. This year, when his latest student defended, we both traveled to Thailand, and spent a week hosted by the professor and her students, both current and former, who are involved in the program. The Thai people are very kind and generous, and although we did sneak out a couple of times on our own, nearly everything we did was orchestrated by our hosts. In addition to masterminding a week of activities, they also made sure we were served vegan food.

Breakfast soup at our hotel in Bangkok

In Thailand, at least where we were in Bangkok and Phitsanulok, vegetarianism is very unusual. In fact, though we were sometimes offered a spectacular vegan feast, none of our Thai friends would even try any of the dishes, preferring to eat their meat-based ones. I don't know if they were being polite, or if they really didn't want to eat vegan food. At our hotels, without the aid of English-speaking Thai friends, we had difficulty ordering food without meat. At our first hotel, another guest intervened on our behalf when she heard us trying to order breakfast in the hotel restaurant. We were ordering the menu item of boiled rice with vegetables, which came as a soup, and it was necessary to have specially prepared vegetarian stock. At least I hope it was vegetarian. Sometimes you just have to trust. It sure tasted good.

One of the re-created buildings at the Ancient City

The flight to Thailand was in two segments — Seattle to Tokyo took about 10-1/2 hours, and the Tokyo to Bangkok segment took about 5-1/2 hours. (I'll talk about the flight in another post.) We arrived in Bangkok at midnight, were picked up and taken to our guest house where we slept very little, then picked up the early the next morning to start our adventure at the Ancient City.

The professor and her student buying crispy rice crackers at the Ancient City.

I want to mention that the temperature outside during our stay was hovering around 105˚F with high humidity; if you tried to convince me that the humidity was 150%, I probably would have believed you. I like heat, and did very well, but it was seriously hot, and every so often I was ready to plotz (the only word I can think of that truly conveys what I mean).

A small section of the floating market at the Ancient City.

The Ancient City is "one of the world’s largest outdoor museums featuring a 200-acre city with 109 scaled-down copies of Thailand’s most famous monuments and architectural attractions." It's laid out in the shape of Thailand so you can learn about the historical architecture and lifestyle of the entire country in a day. Except for a couple of actual buildings that were disassembled, transported to the site and reconstructed in immaculate detail, the structures are all 1/3 actual size.In some cases, it's hard to believe the real structures are 2/3 larger.

Ceiling detail at the Ancient City.


Every detail has been precisely executed to exact historical correctness. Walls have been hand-painted exactly as they would have been when they were first built. I know this because it so happens that the site was founded by the grandfather of our host, the professor who collaborates with my husband. The site is administered by a foundation that continues to expand and build, as well as provide workshops and educational programs for children. The foundation is run  by our host's brother and nephew, and her nephew has also built a small hotel and restaurant to accommodate guests to the museum. Lest you think we walked around the 200 acres in 105˚ heat, don't worry. We rode golf carts. That's what happens when you are friends of the owner.


We had lunch at the hotel, and though I had read about the excess of food guests in Thailand are served, it was still overwhelming to experience it first hand.


In Thailand, you're supposed to always leave some food on your plate so your hosts know you've had enough to eat, otherwise they will bring more.


We were seriously overfed, to the point I was afraid our host would think we didn't like the food because we just couldn't eat any more. We loved the food — it was fabulous, though you are on your own to figure out what it is.


As I mentioned before, our Thai companions did not share any of the vegan food with us. It's true they had ample omni-choices of their own, but our food was so good I really wanted them to try it.



Remember, all the food I just showed you was prepared for just two people. There was also white rice.


The one thing I wasn't so fond of in Thailand was dessert. Some of the desserts we were served were so weird I had trouble getting past their appearance to taste them — green worm-like things in white liquid or starchy fruits mixed with ice. Most were also extremely sweet. A bigger problem was how stuffed I was by the time dessert came along. This dessert was chunks of ice that get eaten along with taro root and other fruit I couldn't identify.I didn't like it much, but after the meal we had just eaten, it hardly mattered.